Horse Riding, Horse Milk, Horse Meat – Welcome to Kazakhstan Part 3: Astana

Welcome to the capital city of Kazakhstan, the second-most populated city in the country, the city that changed its name for 6 times! Welcome to Astana!

The city’s name was Akmoly in 1830, then it changed to Akmolinsk in 1832, then to Tselinograd in the times of SSSR; in 1991 it changed its name to Akmola, and it became the capital in 1997, so they renamed it to Astana; Astana became Nur-Sultan in 2019-2022, only to be back to Astana.

The capital of Kazakhstan holds the record for capital with the most name changes.

The capital of Kazakhstan holds the record for capital with the most name changes.

Ana here 👋 After spending a weekend in Aktau and a week in Uralsk, it was time to go to Astana. Now, I’m sharing tips on how to have an unforgettable journey in this amazing city!

Next stop: Astana

Arriving in Astana by train

From Uralsk, we took a train to Astana. The journey took 34 hours. Yes, you read that right. The distance we covered was almost 2,000 km, so it was like crossing Europe: similar to going from Copenhagen, Denmark to Rome, Italy – just, it is all one country.

The train

We bought the tickets online for around 40 EUR per person, and got a cabin for two, equipped with:

  • two beds, where the bottom one you can easily fold and turn into two seats,
  • two tables that you can mount to the handles of the seats,
  • clean bedsheets,
  • two sockets where we could plug in our chargers,
  • enough light switches for adjusting your light not to disturb the other passenger.

The train was new and clean. It had a restaurant and a bar. There were separated toilets and just bathrooms with sinks; also, there were water dispensers with hot and cold water in every coach… Everything you may need for a long trip!

The trip

The experience was unforgettable! We departed from Uralsk train station at 5 am on Monday. It was Tuesday 3 pm when we arrived.

On our way, we could watch interesting landscapes – all plain steppe with some sheep, camels, horses, and cows along the way, and a lot of petroleum extraction machines.

Whenever we looked through the window, we could see either animals or petroleum extraction machines.

The train was relatively fast – as a car, I’d say. We had regular breaks in the cities where we were collecting passengers. On every stop, there was a small store that would sell all the things necessary on a trip – from ready-meals and snacks to nail kits! Also, there were fast-food shops nearby.

Waking up on that train after thirty hours of nothing but endless steppe and the rhythmic hum of the tracks, seeing the glass towers of Astana rise out of the horizon felt like looking at a mirage. It was a total sensory shock. But what moved me most wasn’t the 97-meter height of the Bayterek Tower; it was the warmth of that small apartment near the Green Bazaar. In a city that looks like it was built for the future, the hospitality felt like it was from a beautiful, ancient past. Whether I was slurping sour kymyz or marveling at a perfume vending machine inside a mosque, I realized that Astana’s true charm isn’t just in its futuristic architecture, but in its ability to keep its nomadic soul alive in the middle of all that steel and marble.

Exploring Astana’s Highlights

Upon arriving in Astana, the city’s futuristic skyline greets you with landmarks like the Bayterek Tower, a 97-meter structure symbolizing the city’s growth. Visit at sunrise for stunning views and fewer crowds.

The Hazrat Sultan Mosque, with its golden domes, offers a serene escape, that is open daily from 9 AM, and is free to enter.

The Palace of Peace and Reconciliation, a pyramid-shaped building, hosts cultural events; check schedules online for tours.

For a taste of history, the National Museum of Kazakhstan details the region’s nomadic past with artifacts like golden treasures. The entry is 1,500 KZT (about 3 EUR).

Immersing in Local Culture and Traditions

Astana’s culture reflects Kazakhstan’s nomadic roots. The Nauryz festival, celebrated in late March, features traditional games like kokpar (horseback wrestling) and feasts with beshbarmak. Locals often invite visitors to try kymuz – horse milk. More precisely, it is fermented mare’s milk, and it is a symbol of hospitality when a host offers you in Kazakhstan. In case you are wondering should you or should you not drink it, here is a research on mare’s milk health benefits.

The city’s markets, like the Green Bazaar, sell handmade crafts and fresh kurut (dried yogurt balls).

Traditional music with the dombra echoes during cultural events at the Astana Opera, and this tells us about both Soviet and Kazakh influences.

Practical Tips for an Unforgettable Journey

  • Transport:
    • Use the city’s buses or rent a bike (500 KZT/trip) to explore sustainably;
    • Taxis are affordable, use Yandex Go or InDrive;
    • Scooters are also available and you can find them everywhere;
  • Accommodation: Stay near the Left Bank for modernity or the Old Town for charm; hotels range from 20-50 EUR per night.
  • Food: Try shashlik at local eateries or baursaks (fried dough) from street vendors. Budget 5-8 EUR per meal, and that is with tea and dessert included!
  • Timing: Visit in May-June for mild weather (15-25°C) or September for cultural festivals. Avoid January, as it can get down to -20°C.
  • Etiquette: Respect customs by accepting offered tea and removing shoes in homes.

A Dinner at a Friend’s Place

One evening in Astana, a local friend invited us for dinner, offering a warm glimpse into Kazakh hospitality.

At 7 PM, we arrived at their cozy apartment near the Green Bazaar, removing our shoes as is custom. On the table, there was beshbarmak, tha national specialty made with tender lamb over dough, served with a side of kazy, the savory horse sausage.

Our host explained its preparation, while pouring kymyz from a clay jug. Kymyz tasted sour, but we liked it! This one was from our friend’s farm, which gave us an opportunity to try a real specialty from the southern part of the country. Even though I am not a huge fan of milk in general, I did not want to reject kymyz, as I understood that it may be considered an insult to the host, so I simply asked to pour less and I could finish it!

Laughter filled the air as we tried to master eating with our hands, which is a traditional practice. In fact, beshbarmak literally translates to “five fingers” because it used to be eaten with hands.

The meal ended with baursaks and tea, shared stories of nomadic life adding flavor.

Visiting the Hazrat Sultan Mosque

A visit to the Hazrat Sultan Mosque was a peaceful highlight. At 9:30 AM, we entered the sprawling complex, its four minarets and golden dome gleaming under the September sun.

Free entry welcomed us, and we marveled at the marble interiors and intricate tile work, completed in 2012. A local guide, in a modest robe, explained its role as a spiritual center, built to hold 10,000 worshippers.

We removed our shoes and covered our heads, respecting the silence.

The courtyard offered views of Astana’s skyline, blending modernity with faith.

Inside the mosque was very modern – there was a cafe, escalator, parfum vending machine: the things I had not expected!

By 11 AM, we left, enriched by the mosque’s serene ambiance and the guide’s insights into Islamic traditions in Kazakhstan.

Visiting the Military Historical Museum

The Military Historical Museum, located near the Independence Square, captivated us with Astana’s martial past. Opening at 10 AM, we paid 1,000 KZT (about 2 EUR) for entry.

The exhibits showcased Kazakh warriors’ armor from the 18th century, Soviet-era tanks, and artifacts from WWII, where Kazakhstan contributed 1.5 million soldiers. A guide highlighted a 19th-century saber, narrating battles against Russian forces.

Deep in the steppes of eastern Kazakhstan, near the village of Issyk in the Almaty Region, lies the legendary discovery of Altyn Adam, known as the “Golden Man.” Found in 1969 from a 5th-century BCE burial mound, this Scythian warrior’s remains were adorned with over 4,000 gold ornaments weighing nearly 4 kilograms. There were intricate motifs of animals, mythical beasts, and geometric patterns that symbolize the nomadic artistry of ancient Eurasian cultures.

The figure, a young man aged 18-20, was buried in a wooden sarcophagus filled with sacrificial horses and artifacts, suggesting high status among the Saka tribes. Visitors of the museum can see replicas and original pieces. This treasure, a UNESCO-recognized icon, offers insight into the Silk Road’s early influencers, with the site’s rolling hills and burial kurgans providing a poignant backdrop for reflection.

For history enthusiasts, a guided tour from Almaty (about 70 km away) reveals how Altyn Adam bridges Kazakhstan’s ancient past to its modern identity, evoking the mystery of forgotten empires under the vast Central Asian sky.

By noon, we exited, understanding the region’s resilience, with the museum’s detailed narratives lingering as we strolled to lunch.

Where to Eat in Astana

Astana’s food scene blends tradition with flair.

Head to Континент for authentic beshbarmak and shashlik, where a meal costs 5-7 EUR.

Bazaarѕ offer street food like baursaks and samsa (meat pastries) for 1-2 EUR.

For a modern twist, try Line Brew with its craft beers and Kazakh fusion dishes, around 8-10 EUR. Vegetarians can enjoy Өzen, serving lentil soups and salads for 4-6 EUR. Visit during lunch hours (12-2 PM) for the best crowds.

Аlways try kumis or tea, those are the local staples that define the taste of Astana.

Leaving Astana: Flight to Sabiha Gokcen

Our Astana adventure ended with a flight to Istanbul’s Sabiha Gokcen Airport for 50 EUR.

At Astana Airport, a complex security check awaited. Officials asked us to switch on our laptops and inspected bags thoroughly, checking passengers one by one, a process taking 45 minutes due to heightened measures.