Horse Riding, Horse Milk, Horse Meat – Welcome to Kazakhstan Part 1: Aktau

After meeting so many Kazakh people in Europe and the US, I decided to travel there and see what this obsession with horses is all about.

Ana here 👋

I’ll share with you my experience of travelling thousands of kilometers on plane, train and by car in this vast country full of surprises!

This post is only the first part of my 2-week adventure in Kazakhstan. My first stop was Aktau, so this text will show you what you can expect and see in this city on the Caspian sea.

Let’s hit the road!

It didn’t take too long before I could understand why horses are so important for this originally nomad nation.

First stop: Aktau

Arriving through Sabiha Gokcen in Istanbul

I travelled to Aktau, a city on the Caspian sea, through Istanbul – Sabiha Gokcen airport. That airport is a boiling pot, as it is well connected.

I had three hours between my flights. The first one was delayed for one hour, so I had two hours to go through transit security check and find the gate. It was just sufficient, as the airport is always crowded and there are long queues everywhere. I was running to the gate and managed to have 15 minutes for a toilet break (again, looong queue).

What I didn’t manage is to connect to airport’s Wifi. You can opt to connect through your mobile phone number (didn’t work for me) or through their Wifi point where you scan your passport and get a code.

Tip: Take a picture of the code in case you struggle to connect from the first attempt and there is – again – a looong line of people waiting behind you.

I chose to fly with Pegasus and without luggage – only my backpack and me for the next two weeks. The plane ticket was around 40 EUR one-way.

How did I manage to pack everything?

I rolled and used packing cubes and carefully planned what I’ll pack. You can do the same, and we can help with the pro tips on how to save space and avoid hassle.

As it was September, I packed mostly light things but also two jackets and some long sleeves shirts, since the forecast was saying it will be around 15-20 degrees Celsius.

Transportation from the airport in Aktau

Passport control in Aktau was rather fast. However, they asked all the foreigners about their stay and plans, and thoroughly checked our passports. The airport is small, and in front of it, you will find a lot of taxis. Taxi is the only option to go from the airport to the city, but luckily, it is quite affordable. We paid around 6 EUR for a taxi to the city center.

To save some money and avoid tourist traps install the app called inDrive through Play Store or App Store. In the app, you set the destination and the price you are willing to pay. The drivers are notified and when one of them confirms, you get information about the car and the driver.

Another app widely used in Kazakhstan is Yandex Go, which operates in the same way as Uber, for example. There is no “auction” option.

Also, if Google maps are failing you in Kazakhstan, don’t worry – it is all in 2GIS. Download it for your Android or iOS.

Accommodation in Aktau

We booked Turan Hotel through Booking.com – a room for two costed around 20 EUR per night. The room was clean, everything was functional, and the hotel is in a good location.

The hotel has a restaurant with simple options for breakfast – English breakfast, omelet, oats, etc. Prices are also okay – from around 2 EUR for oats to 4 EUR for Turkish breakfast.

Go for Turkish or English breakfast if you prefer salty breakfast.

Additionally, there is a sauna (costed around 30 EUR for two people for two hours). Sauna (called banya in Russian) was clean and nice.

What to do in Aktau

On our first day, we rented electric scooters (JET is omnipresent in Aktau) and drove around the city. Prices start around 0.0625 EUR per minute).

The Caspian Sea

The Caspian sea is the main attraction in Aktau – it’s the main reason for many tourist for their visit. Even though it is called sea, it is actually a lake. However, due to its size – its area is 371,000 km² – it is called sea.

The shore is long, the beach is sandy, and in September it is very easy to find a spot for sunbathing. It is a family destination, so you will see many kids around.

The shore looks amazing – it is calming and clean. It is possible to swim as long as the temperature allows for that.

Lake or sea?

We suggest you to book a cruise. It is cheap and a fun activity. You will notice that virtually all the businesses in Kazakhstan have an Instagram page and WhatsApp account and are quite responsive. Also, they are quite digital – you can pay with a card everywhere.

There is an unique spot worth noticing: the lighthouse, which is built on the top of a residential building in Aktau. See it in the picture?

Look at the lighthouse from this perspective!

It was easy to walk barefoot on the beach – my favorite activity! However, no fabulous photos with footprints, as you can see below…

It is easy to on the beach without shoes, but have a pair for walking in the shallow water, as there is a lot of sea weed.

Now, the beach was nice, but the promenade is just stunning. We decided to come back in the evening – and you will see why!

You can easily find a spot on the beach, but don’t miss taking a photo on the promenade!

“Beket-Ata” Aktau Central Mosque

We went to the “Beket-Ata” Aktau Central Mosque. It is simple and beautiful at the same time.

In Kazakhstan, even though it is a Muslim country, you will not see the same behavior as in some of the Muslim Middle-East countries. My impression, and what I can tell based on the conversations with the local from the West Kazakhstan, is that here is a combination of Islamic influence and ancient Kazakh culture. For instance, music and dance is an integral part of Kazakh culture. Of course, as in any society, there are different groups with different views. Therefore, in Kazakhstan as well, you will find people who do not dance in celebrations due to their beliefs.

Also, women – unlike in Uzbekistan, for example – are welcome in mosques. Still, it is important to adhere to rules and etiquette. Above all, make sure to take your shoes off before entering. Your feet and socks should be clean. The opposite is considered an insult to Islam. For women, there are clothes to ensure you are covered, as well as scarves for your head. For men, you should also be dressed appropriate – no shorts, sporty clothes, and there are hats for you as well to cover your head.

Once you are inside a mosque, make sure to never walk in front of someone praying. People will often be turned to the wall while praying to avoid interruptions by those passing by. In any case, you should pay attention. Also, do not step over anyone who is sitting on the floor. Don’t talk loudly and be mindful of your language. Regarding Koran, don’t place it on the floor and make sure never to put anything on top of it. 

Read on how to behave in a mosque if you are a tourist; also here is an article for what is appropriate for women entering a mosque.

Where to eat in Aktau?

Now, our question was… Where to eat?

After looking for a restaurant on our way, we noticed something quite interesting 😂 A cartoon-inspired restaurant near the beach.

It can be a great experience for a family with kids.

We decided to have a lunch at Myata Lounge. The prices are slightly higher than in other places, as it is a rather fancy place – there is a Hookah lounge on the first floor, while the second is a restaurant, and third is a rooftop. If the weather allows, go for the rooftop – the view is great!

Since it was cold, we chose the second floor. We ordered a chickpea soup (around 3 EUR) and a portion of country-style meat with potatoes (around 6 EUR), with 1l of orange juice and a cup of tea with grains – a must try!

Locals always drink tea with their meal.

However, if you want to go for a more local experience, you should definitely try fishbarmak! It is a fish-based variation of the national specialty called beshbarmak, which is originally prepared with horse sausages. Try it in a restaurant “Aidyn” located on the beach – it has a wonderful view.

Another great place with spotless service was Baraka – they label it as cafe but don’t be fooled: even a cafe serves food in Kazakhstan.

I ate a famous soup called Solyanka – it is a traditional Russian soup that is quite literally a mix of everything: beef, veal, ham, sausages, liver, chicken breast, pickled mushrooms or cucumbers, onions, potatoes, tomato paste, pitted olives, allspice, cardamom, bay leaf, parsley, fresh dill, and lemon!

In food, language, and overall mentality of the people, you can see the Russian influence.

Evening in Aktau

Make no mistake – evenings are for (romantic) walks on the promenade. It is absolutely stunning with the lights.

It’s like you are in a cave from one side, but under clear sky on the other side.

There are some quite nice hotels and restaurants on the coast.

Take a look at the map and start walking by the huge rocks – you will enjoy every step! Just be careful, because at some point (around halfway) tiles are very slippery.

There are many benches for you to relax and simply watch the sea.

The walk on the promenade is long – enjoy every step!

Standing on the edge of the Bozzhyra canyon, looking at the ‘Tiramisu’ layers of the earth, I felt incredibly small in the best way possible. It’s one thing to read about the Tethys Ocean, but it’s another to realize you’re walking on an ancient seabed in the middle of a desert. But my favorite memory isn’t just the grand landscapes; it was that first evening in Aktau, sitting on a bench on the promenade with a cup of grain tea. There’s a unique magic in watching a lighthouse built on top of an apartment building while the Caspian Sea laps at the shore. It reminded me that Kazakhstan doesn’t just offer nature – it offers a way of life that is surprisingly digital and modern, yet still deeply rooted in the quiet, hospitable rhythm of the steppe.

Trips from Aktau

There are many options for multi-day trips from Aktau, and if you have time, make sure to take one.

We had time only for a one-day trip, and after scrolling through the offers of Mangystau Safari, we decided to visit Bozzhyra and Kyzylkup aka Tiramisu. The trip took 12h in total and costed around 12 EUR per person.

These locations are unlike anything I have ever seen before! There are so many great spots for Instagrammable pictures – have an outfit ready!

You cannot forget these landscapes once you see them!

The bus ride is long, but the guides are always funny and do a great job to entertain everybody. Also, they organize a dinner and tea, which is very refreshing.

The nickname “Tiramisu” is obvious once you see the layers and colors here.

The whole Mangystau region looks absolutely wonderful – so good you will think it’s photoshopped for a movie located on Mars. However, there is a long history to explain the look of this part of Kazakhstan: it was covered in Tethys Ocean around 60-80 million years ago.

Read more about the region’s history here.

What’s next?

Next stop in Kazakhstan was Uralsk (Oral in Kazakh), a city that unites Europe and Asia, speaks about khans, tzars, combines mosques and churches. Join us for Part 2!