You know that song “I’m in love with a fairytale…“? Yeah, the Eurosong from 2009… Okay, maybe you are not that old. In any case… I couldn’t stop singing it in Samarkand. Going there was literally like stepping into a fairy tale.
This ancient city in Uzbekistan is over 2,700 years old. Yup, you read that right. It was a major stop on the Silk Road and its history is rich.
Now, it is on our way and we have just 24 hours to explore it on a budget.
With comfy shoes and curious hearts – we stepped into Samarkand’s magic.
Join us!
Morning: Arrival and First Glimpse
As soon as we land at Samarkand’s shiny new airport, the adventure begins. The air smells of dust and distant spices. From the airport, a taxi to the city centre costs €5, a 20-minute ride past cotton fields and the Zeravshan River sparkling under the sun. If we’re coming by train from Tashkent, it’s €7 and takes 2 hours on a high-speed Afrosiyob train. The station’s close to the old town, where history waits around every corner.
We checked into Malika Prime Hotel. We read reviews and saw with our own eyes that it is a clean spot near Registan Square. Also, it is budget-friendly: a room costs €15 per night, with free tea and Wi-Fi.
The staff smile, offering maps and tips about nearby markets. We drop our bags, grab a scarf for mosques, and slip on a hat for the warm sun. Not to forget, pack a water bottle!
Mid-Morning: Registan Square
Then, we step into Registan Square, Samarkand’s crown jewel. Three huge madrasahs—Ulugh Beg, Tilya-Kori, and Sher-Dor—stand tall, their turquoise tiles sparkling like sapphires in the sunlight. Built between 1417 and 1660 by Timur and his grandson Ulugh Beg, these were schools for Islamic scholars, buzzing with learning centuries ago. We pay €3 to enter and climb the Sher-Dor minaret. The view shows red-tiled roofs, green gardens, and distant mountains. The air smells of old stone and fresh bread from nearby stalls. We’re imagining traders and students debating here 600 years ago.
We stop at a stall for samsa, a flaky pastry filled with lamb and onions (€0.50). It’s hot, crispy, and full of this O-M-G flavour. I have tried something similar before, when travelling to Morocco, I believe, but this is next level.
We sit on a stone bench, watching kids chase pigeons across the square. A vendor offers a free sample of dried apricots, sweet and chewy. We buy a small bag (€1), a cheap treat to snack. The square’s lively, with music coming from a nearby shop selling lutes.
We buy a tiny ceramic tile (€2), its blue glaze matching the madrasahs.
Quick Facts (Registan Square):
- Location: City centre
- History: Built 1417–1660
- Cost: €3 entry
- Duration: 1–2 hours
- Vibe: Grand, historic
Pro Tip: Visit early (8 a.m.) to avoid crowds. Bring cash (Uzbek som)—cards aren’t always accepted in ticket booths.
Midday: Bibi-Khanym Mosque
As soon as we leave Registan, we head to Bibi-Khanym Mosque, a short walk away. This massive mosque, built in 1404 for Timur’s wife, once held 10,000 worshippers. Its blue dome shines like a giant jewel, though an 1897 earthquake cracked its walls. Rebuilt in the 1970s, it’s still stunning. Entry’s €2. We dress modestly—scarves for shoulders, long trousers. Inside, the courtyard’s quiet, with a marble Quran stand carved with swirling patterns. The air smells of roses from bushes lining the walls. We’re hooked, picturing Timur praying here with his army.
We grab plov at Osh Markazi, a local eatery steps from the mosque (€2). This rice dish with carrots, lamb, and cumin is Uzbekistan’s favourite. We eat outside on wooden chairs, watching artisans carry rolled-up rugs to the market. The plov’s warm, hearty, with a hint of spice. Not to forget, ask for extra raisins—they’re free and add a sweet pop. The waiter shares a story about Timur’s feasts, making us feel closer to history.
We wander to a nearby stall for sumalak, a sweet paste made from sprouted wheat (€0.50). It’s thick, nutty, and a Navruz festival special. We eat it slowly, sitting under a tree. The square’s busy but calm, with kids kicking a football nearby. We buy a small clay bowl (€1.50), perfect for tea later.
Pro Tip: Take photos from the mosque’s entrance for the best dome view. Avoid prayer times (noon, 5 p.m.) for a quieter visit.
The Story of Plov
Also, there is a legendary story behind Uzbekistan’s most famous dish—and its name.
Back in the 10th century, a young prince in Bukhara fell mysteriously ill. No one could figure it out. Doctors tried and failed.
So they called in the great Avicenna (yep, the ibn Sina). He took one look—or rather, felt the prince’s pulse—and said: “This is love sickness.”
The girl? A craftsman’s daughter. Not exactly royal material.
Avicenna offered two cures: let him marry the girl, or feed him something hearty. Really hearty.
So they cooked up a dish with seven ingredients:
- Piez (onion)
- Aez (carrot)
- Lahm (meat)
- Olie (fat)
- Vet (salt)
- Ob (water)
- Shaly (rice)
He ate it for seven days. On the eighth, he got the girl.
And the dish? It got its name from the first letters of those ingredients: palov osh – today: plov!
Oh, in case you’re a real foodie, we have a guide with our favorite traditional dishes from all over the world.
Afternoon: Siyob Bazaar
Then, we go to the Samarkand’s main market from the title Siyob Bazaar (btw, bazaar means market). It is located next to Bibi-Khanym.
The air smells of roasted nuts, ripe pomegranates, and fresh herbs. Stalls overflow with walnuts, silk scarves, and stacks of round bread. We watch a vendor slice non bread. There is an interesting story behind non.
The Story of Non
A real Samarkand flatbread? Should last three years.
There’s this old story. The Khan of Bukhara loved the bread so much, he wanted it made in Bukhara.
His bakers tried. Failed.
He brought in a baker from Samarkand. Still not the same.
So he went all in—brought the flour, the water, everything from Samarkand.
Still no luck.
Frustrated, the Khan asked the baker what was wrong.
The baker shrugged. “It’s the air,” he said.
The Khan just smiled. Let him go. What else could he do?
Since then, they bring the bread from Samarkand. Always.
It’s mesmerizing. We try a piece (less than €0.30), straight from the clay oven.
We stop at a tea stall for kok choy, green tea with mint (€0.40). It’s refreshing, served in a tiny cup with a sugar cube. We sit under a shady tree. A kid shows us his toy camel. The market is full of life, like a living history book. We try kurt, a salty dried cheese ball (€0.50), chewy and tangy. Not to forget, we buy a small bag of dried figs (€1), perfect for snacking later.
Quick Facts (Siyob Bazaar):
- Location: Near Bibi-Khanym Mosque
- Cost: Free (souvenirs €1–5)
- Duration: 1–2 hours
- Vibe: Lively, colourful
Pro Tip: Bargain gently—prices can drop 10–20%. Carry small bills (1,000–5,000 som) for stalls.
Late Afternoon: Shah-i-Zinda
As soon as the sun softens, we visit Shah-i-Zinda, a holy necropolis a short walk from the bazaar. This alley of tombs, built from the 11th to 19th centuries, honours Qasim Ibn Abbas, who brought Islam to Samarkand in the 7th century. The blue and gold tiles shimmer, with patterns like stars and vines. Entry’s €2. We walk quietly, respecting the sacred site. The air smells of damp stone and jasmine from nearby flowers. We’re hooked, imagining pilgrims visiting centuries ago.
We stop at a stall for halva, a sesame sweet (€0.50). It’s crumbly, nutty, and melts in our mouth. Aside from that, you should also try parvarda and nishalda, which are both typical Uzbek sweets.
We sit on a stone step, watching families light candles at the tombs. A guide shares stories of Timur’s sister buried here.
Not to forget, no photos inside tombs. Please, be respectful.
We wander to a nearby courtyard with a small fountain. We dip our hands in the cool water, watching sparrows flutter by.
Pro Tip: Wear comfy shoes—the stone paths are uneven. Visit before 4 p.m. for softer light and fewer people.
Evening: Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum
As the sun sets, we head to Gur-e-Amir, the mausoleum of famous
Amir Temur. For the Central Asian territories, Amir Timur is an important historical figure. The mausoleum is a 10-minute walk from Registan. Its golden dome glows under lanterns, like a star in the dusk. Built in 1404, it’s where Timur and his sons rest. The interior’s covered in gold leaf and blue tiles, with intricate patterns.
Entry is €2. We stand by Timur’s tombstone, feeling the weight of history. The air smells of old wood and incense. We’re hooked, picturing the Timurid Empire’s glory.
Dinner’s at Samarkand Restaurant, near Registan. We try lagman, a noodle soup with beef, peppers, and dill (€2.50). It’s warm, spicy, and perfect after a long day. The waiter offers free non bread and we learned how to say say “rahmat” (thank you). Also, we try manti, steamed dumplings with meat(€1.50), tender and flavourful. We’re full but happy.
Quick Facts (Gur-e-Amir):
- Location: 1 km from Registan
- History: Built 1404
- Cost: €2
- Duration: 1 hour
- Vibe: Sacred, grand
Pro Tip: Visit at dusk for glowing dome views. Dress modestly, make sure that you have your shoulders and knees covered.
Night: Eternal City and Night Market
Then, we explore the Eternal City at Silk Road Samarkand, a modern complex 20 minutes from the old town (taxi €5). It’s a recreated ancient city with domed roofs, craft shops, and canals reflecting lights. We watch a potter shape a clay bowl, his hands quick and steady. It’s mesmerizing. We buy a small ceramic cup (€3), its blue glaze shining like Registan’s tiles. The air smells of grilled shashlik (kebabs, €2). We try one, juicy and smoky, from a stall. Not to forget, the complex has free music shows at 8 p.m.—check the schedule for traditional lute performances.
We grab tea (€0.50) at a canal-side café. It is good to take some rest now, especially by the water. I have to say that our local guide helped us a lot. We definitely recommend booking one before coming, as it definitely helps you see everything and basically getting the most out of your (short) stay.
A vendor sells suzani, embroidered cloths. We stop at a night market stall for qazi, a spicy sausage (€1), typical for this region.
Quick Facts (Eternal City):
- Location: 5 km from old town
- Cost: Free (souvenirs €3–5)
- Duration: 1–2 hours
- Vibe: Modern, cultural
Pro Tip: Take a taxi back to avoid late-night buses. Book via Yandex Go app for fair prices.
Bonus Activity: Afrasiab Museum
Got extra time? Visit the Afrasiab Museum, 2 km from Registan (taxi €3). It’s near the ancient Sogdian ruins, where Samarkand began in 700 BC. The museum shows 7th-century wall paintings of traders on camels and elephants, found in the 1960s. Entry’s €2. We’re amazed, picturing Sogdian merchants trading silk across Asia.
We walk to the nearby Afrasiab ruins, which is actually a grassy hill with crumbling walls. It’s free to explore, though there’s little shade. A local guide tells us about Sogdian kings, and I am imagining caravans resting here.
Quick Facts (Afrasiab Museum):
- Location: Northeast Samarkand
- Cost: €2
- Duration: 1 hour
- Vibe: Historic, artistic
Pro Tip: Use the museum’s audio guide (€1) for stories about Sogdians. Bring a hat for the sunny ruins.
Bonus Activity: Ulugh Beg Observatory
Want more history? Head to Ulugh Beg Observatory, 3 km from Registan (taxi €3). Built in 1420 by Ulugh Beg, Timur’s grandson, it was a centre for star-gazing. We see a huge stone sextant used to map stars. Entry’s €2. The air smells of grass and old stone. We’re amazed, picturing Ulugh Beg charting the skies. The museum’s small but packed with facts about medieval astronomy.
Outside, as soon as we got to the street with shops, a vendor offers lepyoshka, a seeded bread (€0.40), warm and chewy. We eat it slowly. There are so many varieties here, so many different pastry types. I am trying to taste them all, but it is impossible.
Quick Facts (Ulugh Beg Observatory):
- Location: Northeast Samarkand
- Cost: €2
- Duration: 1 hour
- Vibe: Scientific, historic
Pro Tip: Visit in the late afternoon for cooler weather, it closes at 8pm. Read the exhibit signs, as they explain star charts clearly.
Bonus Activity: Hazrat Khizr Mosque
Feeling adventurous? Walk to Hazrat Khizr Mosque, a 10-minute walk from Shah-i-Zinda. This 8th-century mosque, rebuilt in the 19th century, sits on a hill with city views. Its green dome glows softly. The entry is free, but donations are welcome, so have that in mind.
Again, dress modestly. The mosque is wonderful and it feels so good to be here and reflect a bit.
Quick Facts (Hazrat Khizr Mosque):
- Location: Near Shah-i-Zinda
- Cost: free
- Duration: 45 minutes
- Vibe: Peaceful, scenic
Pro Tip: Wear sturdy shoes for the hill. Avoid midday heat—visit before 10 a.m. or after 4 p.m.
Getting There
Fly to Samarkand from London (€200–300) via Istanbul with Turkish Airlines or Uzbekistan Airways. From Tashkent, trains (€7, 2 hours) or buses (€5, 4 hours) are cheap. Book via Advantour or Uzbekistan Railways for deals. Taxis in Samarkand cost €3–5—use Yandex Go to avoid overcharges. The old town’s walkable, but buses (€0.20) or shared taxis (€0.50) connect farther spots. Always check fares before hopping in.
Where to Stay
- Malika Prime Hotel: Clean, near Registan, with breakfast. €15/night.
- Silk Road Empire Hotel: Modern, with kind staff and Wi-Fi. €25/night.
- Bibikhanum Hotel: Simple, central, with free tea. €20/night.
- Samarkand Dream: Quiet, budget-friendly, near markets. €18/night.
Best Time to Visit
Spring (March–May) and autumn (September–November) are perfect. Temperatures are 15–25°C, and crowds are smaller. Summer’s hot (35°C), making markets sweaty. Winter’s cold (0–5°C), with some sites closing early. Mornings are best for clear photos and quiet visits. Avoid Navruz (March 21) for cheaper hotels and fewer tourists.
Budget Breakdown (24 Hours)
Hotel (1 night) 15 €
Food & Drinks 12 €
Entry Fees 11 €
Transport 10 €
Souvenirs 10 €
Total 59 €
Also, add some extra money (always). We might never know what we could need it for. This is just a rough estimation.
Cultural Notes
Samarkand’s history is deep. Founded around 700 BC, it thrived under Sogdians, Alexander the Great, and Timur’s empire in the 14th century. Mosques, madrasahs, and markets show its Silk Road past, blending Persian, Turkic, and Islamic cultures. Learn “Salom” (hello) and “Rahmat” (thank you)—locals light up when we try. Dress modestly in mosques—cover shoulders and knees. Cash (Uzbek som) rules markets; ATMs are spotty, with €1–2 fees. Chat with artisans—they share tales of Timur’s artists, Soviet times, and modern weddings. It’s like living in a history book.
Conservation Connection
Samarkand’s beauty needs care. Over-tourism stresses sites like Shah-i-Zinda, where tiles crack under foot traffic. Stick to marked paths to protect them. Use a reusable water bottle—tap water’s safe if filtered (use a Lifestraw, €20). Book local guides via Samarkand Tours (€10/hour) to support preservation. Don’t touch ancient walls—hand oils damage tiles. Keep Samarkand shining for future travellers.
Final Thoughts
Samarkand’s is a fairytale and a time machine. We ate like kings (ahem, sultans, khans, amirs,…), walked a lot – like real nomads, saw so many interesting things, learned so much about this amazing country’s history. And the best part?
We learned about ourselves, also.
How to really enjoy every meal, how to pay attention to stories, as we could decypher our own destinies in them.
As the sun sets, we’re dreaming of returning. The legend says Samarkand calls you back. We believe it.
We loved Samarkand, and hope we managed to illustrate what we felt there.
Until our next post,
Happy travels!
Your truly,
Reward.land crew
Hi, I’m Marta. I plan trips carefully, but always with one main priority: great food. I love discovering cozy pubs, hidden restaurants, and local gems that make every destination feel special. With 3,000+ restaurant check-ins and 1,700 reviews, I’m here to help you find the places that are truly worth visiting.